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 Aspects of Horsham's past by Brian Slyfield

April 2010 

John Guille Millais and his 3,000 dead birds

John Guille Millais, explorer, naturalist and author, was the fourth son of the famous painter Sir John Everett Millais, and for a good part of his life he lived off Compton's Lane at a house called Compton's Brow (now long demolished), together with his private museum and a collection of 150 heads of deer and over 3,000 birds (either stuffed or skinned). Before we take a closer look at this remarkable man and the no less remarkable contents of his house, a word or two about his illustrious father.

Sir John Everett Millais (1829-1896) came to London from Jersey with his parents in 1837 and rapidly made a name for himself as a painter. Together with Holman Hunt and Dante Gabriel Rossetti he founded the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood in 1848-49, and was responsible for some of the movement's greatest masterpieces, such as 'Lorenzo and Isabella', 'Mariana' and 'The Blind Girl'. John Ruskin gave the group his seal of approval, and Millais later produced more popular and overtly sentimental paintings such as 'The Boyhood of Raleigh' and 'Bubbles'. He also became a fashionable society portrait painter, and counted Gladstone, Tennyson and Carlyle among his sitters. His enormous success brought considerable wealth, and in the 1880s his income was estimated at £30,000 a year – a huge sum for the times. He had the additional distinction of being the first English artist to be made a baronet.

His son was born in London on 24 March 1865, and was educated at Marlborough and Trinity College, Cambridge. He served as a Lieutenant in the Somerset Light Infantry and the Seaforth Highlanders between 1883-1892, and after he resigned his commission he went to South Africa for a while. He later rose to the rank of Lieutenant Commander in the R.N.V.R., and was not afraid to label himself 'a jack of all trades', prepared to serve as soldier or sailor. He was clearly a man of action, but also – in that very Victorian way – a fine artist as well, (in his case with a strong family tradition behind him, of course), and his curriculum vitae had many strings to its bow: soldier, explorer, hunter, wildlife artist, writer, naturalist, plantsman, animal sculptor and even landscape artist. If all that was not enough, he was also a keen tennis player.

In his childhood he had spent much time on family property in Scotland, and taught himself to be a sharp observer of the natural world – as well as a sharp shot. He was later to boast (in a way calculated to make my birding friends shiver) 'in the course of twenty-five years I killed every British bird it is possible to obtain in our islands, beyond rare visitors, with the exception of Curlew Sandpiper in full breeding plumage'. This, then, was the source of his 3,000 bird collection at Compton's Brow.

He was reckoned to be a dead shot with a catapult, and claimed to have killed many of the specimens in his collection this way, particularly small birds, and to have stunned larger ones, from cormorants to Rocky Mountain blue grouse. His museum collection was stored in filing cabinets, with a glass top to each drawer. Each skin was stuffed with a little cotton wool, and the closed drawers protected them from fading in the sunlight. I am told that Horsham Museum threw out a number of specimens some years ago, and it might just be that they were from the Millais collection. Let's hope not - but whatever their source, they should of course have been offered to the Rothschild museum at Tring.

Millais travelled extensively in pursuit of his interests, and the roll-call of the territories he explored is equally long: Iceland, Newfoundland (in 1902 he was the first to explore and map 100 square miles of the interior, and Millais Lake is named after him), Norway, Canada, Alaska, the Carpathians, Western America, and North East, South and Central Africa. Without doubt a tough, energetic and restless man.

He also left a considerable legacy of fine books behind him. His first was 'Game Birds and Shooting Sketches' (1892), and others in the same vein included 'A Breath from the Veldt' (1895), based on his South African sojourn, and 'Newfoundland and its Untrodden Ways' (1907). All are desirable collectors' items today, but none more so than his fine folio studies of birds, animals and plants, which are among the best of their kind. A set of the two volume 'British Diving Ducks' (1913), for example, was recently on sale for £6,200, and a copy of his limited edition 'Wild Life in Africa (1928) for about £10,000. Prices of £1,000 and upwards are routine for volumes such as 'British Deer and Their Horns' (1897).

It is said that no contemporary artist could equal him for portraying animals and birds in action, and he was much in demand as well, as an illustrator of books on sport and natural history, such as the 'Badminton Library'. He also collaborated with other well-known artists, and had a fruitful partnership with the great Archibald Thorburn in volumes such as 'The Natural History of the British Surface-feeding Ducks' (1902), and 'The Natural History of British Game Birds' (1909).

He married Frances, the second daughter of P.G. Skinwith, and they came to live in Horsham in the late 1890s, where their first address was 'Melwood' in Rusper Road. This was no more than a stop-gap address, for soon afterwards, in 1902, they moved to the newly-built Compton's Brow, which was to remain his family home for the rest of his life. His family name is, of course, retained in today's naming of 'Millais' as a Horsham road, and the many rhododendrons that still grace that area are a reminder of how splendid his gardens on the same site, which he developed with care, must once have been. He also bought land in St Leonard's Forest.

Between them John and Frances had three children, two sons and one daughter. Of the sons, Geoffrey was killed in the Great War in 1918, a Lieutenant in the Bedfordshire Regiment, and Hesketh Raoul (known generally as 'Raoul') was later to travel extensively with his father, and collaborated with him on many of his books.

A good way to get a flavour of the man is to accompany him on one of his many expeditions, and we can do this, of course, by digging into his travel books. But thanks to an enterprising reporter from the West Sussex County Times, who sat down with Millais one day at Compton's Brow just after he had returned from a trip to Alaska, we can learn about one of his expeditions, as it were, hot off the press.

It went something like this. In mid-October 1908 Millais returned home from a four-month expedition to Alaska, where he had been invited by the British Columbian Government in order to report on the natural resources of the north country, its scenery, wildlife and flora, and its 'general suitability for emigration'. They had been impressed by his earlier work on Newfoundland, and so he set off on the 8th July: next stop - Vancouver. His journey was to take him a distance of some 8,000 miles, and he told the local reporter that (apart from any obligatory survey work for the government), he was particularly anxious to bag 'the big moose of Alaska', as well as caribou, that lived at a height of 6,000-8,000 feet among the snow-covered mountains – and if he was very lucky, a grizzly bear or two. This seemed to be where his main focus lay.

When he got to Vancouver he had to wait a while for the steamer to take him up the coast, and so - not to miss a single opportunity - he spent a pleasant few days with rod and line on Vancouver Island, where he caught three fine salmon, each weighing over 50lbs. One of these splendid fish, landed on 12th August, a massive 59 pounder, now resides in a glass case in the hallway of Horsham Museum - all the way from the clear cold waters of the Campbell River, and in its case for nearly 100 years. Eventually he got to Fort Wrangell 'in American Alaska', and then transferred to a small river steamer that took him inland up the Stikine for 150 miles to an Indian post called Telegraph Creek.

At this point he fitted out his expedition with five horses and two Indian guides, one a professional moose hunter from the Liard River, and the other a native from the Tahitan tribe. The journey was now overland, and the party made slow progress for another 150 miles to the south-east of Dease Lake in the Rockies, near the head of the Yukon River. Here they spent two weeks hunting in what Millais lightly described as 'bad weather', and he was able to shoot two moose and two caribou, which he was happy to claim were 'exceptional specimens'.

He found himself back at Telegraph Creek around the 23rd September, and his next task was to find another Indian guide who knew that part of the Stikine River 'where bears were to be found'. But this was no easy task, as bear-hunting guides were few and far between. The grizzlies' reputation was fearsome, and no sensible local would want to put himself in the path of such a natural aggressor. But eventually a man was found – and he must have been a good one, because in the space of four days they found three bears, and killed two. One was nine feet in height, and needed four shots from Millais, before 'falling to his magazine'. But it seems that the hard work was only just beginning, as they then took three days in skinning and dissecting the bodies – 'a toilsome task'.

A canoe took them and the bearskins swiftly back down the Stikine; they managed to do 80 miles in one day, but then had to wait a week on the coast for the steamer to arrive to take Millais back to Vancouver. He made particular comment on how bad the weather had been, with lots of early snow – apparently two-and-a-half feet of it on the mountains on the 10th September. The year before a man had died there in similar conditions.

Millais thought it had been the roughest trip he had made in the last twenty years, and the worst bit had been the stretch after leaving Telegraph Creek. All along the way the Indian guides had had to break out a trail for the horses, one of which, when they were pushing for the Dease Lake Mountains, got trapped in a bog, sinking so low that only its head was visible. After a one-and-a-half hour's struggle they decided to make a form of spade from a fir tree, and with the help of this crude implement managed to clear away the mud to one side of the horse, then fill the gap with branches, and so by dint of strenuously rolling the animal over, eventually managed to free it. Sounds like a nightmare, does it not.

But to the intrepid Millais it was all worthwhile. He had secured 'some splendid horns, the blue riband of the woods', he had found his grizzlies, and he had spent his time in 'what to him was most loveable on earth, in the air and in the sea'.

He died suddenly, aged 66 and on his birthday, 24th March 1931, and there was a simple family funeral at Warnham, presided over by the Rev. F.S. Farebrother from Horsham. So what, finally, should we make of that most contentious issue - Millais' attitude to the natural world, his concern for it, but destruction of it? Men like Millais make today's conservationists flutter their hands in alarm, of course, but autre temps, autres moeurs, as the French would say. Naturalists then operated by the maxim 'what's hit is history; what's missed is mystery', and the Victorians saw little distinction between a deep love of nature on the one hand and the killing of animals, the collecting of birds' eggs and the stuffing of birds on the other. While this behaviour might well be alien to us today, it was fine and dandy then, and that must be the context within which we should view Millais and his sporting activities. And we must not forget, of course, that his legacy to us has been some of the finest depictions of animals, birds and plants that the world has ever seen.

Frances Millais remembered

One Horsham resident remembers, as a six year old girl, visitng Compton's Brow and meeting Frances Millais in the 1930s when the lady was a widow. In contrast to Mrs Courage (from the brewing family), who lived at nearby Compton's Lea and 'a more contrary person it would have been hard to find', Mrs Millais was 'a truly delightful lady'.

But she seemed to live in fairly straightened circumstances, with just one elderly maid who had been with her for years, and a man who came in to keep the grass and shrubs, which her husband had brought back from his travels, under control. (Those splendid rhododendrons and azaleas are still a feature of the area.)

One day, with a friend, the six year old was collecting moss from beside a path which was within sight of Mrs Millais' window, when the latter came out to ask what they needed the moss for. The answer was that the girls were keen on making miniature gardens, and the moss was intended to represent the lawns. They were invited in and given a tour of Mrs Millais' own garden, and she sent them home with an enormous bunch of flowers each.